August 21, 2011

A solitary weekend - Logarska Dolina

(Logarska Dolina, Slovenia. 21-23 January, 2011)
 

Entangled in the hustle bustle of everyday busy routine, sometimes the mind seeks to be one with nature, to relax and rejuvenate in some solitary corner. We planned for such a trip in nature one weekend in the last snowy January to the Logar valley. It had been my long wish to spend a couple of days amidst nothing, surrounded with snow, to relax and enjoy. Finally, it was coming true. The only plan was to do nothing. We only wished to feel the tranquility and natural beauty around us..

Logarska dolina, the Logar valley, is one of the most beautiful glacial valleys of the Alps. Lying in the heart of Kamnik-Savinja Alps, lofty mountains surround this ancient narrow valley. Tumbling down the mountains are numerous waterfalls and streams. Abysses, overhanging walls, moraine deposits, etc present the glacial history of the valley now covered with green meadows and forests. It is also an ideal starting point for various hiking and climbing routes, and offers several other activities.

On the Friday, we left work a bit early and started for the valley. It was around 70km long drive, a nice one with no highway. I always love that. We passed known towns, and took some roads I simply adore. Then it was all unknown. Cold little Savinja flowed on one side of the road; and mountains formed a wall on the other. The overhanging walls of agglomerated rocks formed different sculptures from which were hanging interesting ice formations. Each time the road turned, the scenery in front of us changed into another fascinating one. It was almost dark as we reached the valley. The car pulled by the homestead we were about to stay in.

The way to Logarska Dolina
 
The valley is divided in three parts, Log, Plest and Kot. Our homestead ‘Juvanija’ (in the lower valley Log) was there enveloped in the darkness of the evening, without anything else nearby. We were the only guests in the farm. The room was furnished with wood, and the warm yellow light created a cozy relaxing ambiance. After refreshing, it was soon time for dinner. Warm soup, pork in a tasty sauce with dumplings, and a simple dessert, the menu was rustic and delicious.

Our homestead Juvanija in the morning

Everything was silver as we stepped out in the balcony. The almost full moon drenched the whole valley; the snow was white with a glittery shine. It was chilly winter outside. Everything enveloped in this beautiful silence.
Next morning we woke up to a pristine beauty. Starting with a lazy breakfast, there was no real plans to explore around much. “After the sun shines into the valley”, we thought, “we would walk to the Rinka waterfalls”. The narrow valley gets only a few hours of sun, especially in the winter. In the wait, I almost fell asleep snuggled in the relaxing warmth of the blanket. When in the city does one have the luxury to do that? We woke up only when the sun was shining into the room making it gloriously golden.

On the way to Rinka waterfalls

 
Footsteps on snow

It was around 6km walk to the falls, and there was no one on the road. We were making footsteps on the fresh snow that fell overnight. The actual hiking trails were mostly inaccessible because of the snow and we decided to take the main road. By the road, I would find these beautiful white fields without a footstep on it, and had this strong urge to run there. We walked to the tree. Little icicles and snow curtain hung on its branches. I loved when these tiny ice needles melted in mouth with a tingling sensation. The last part of the walk was amidst woods, dry leaves crushing under the snow. Then, there was Rinka waterfall in front of us. Almost frozen and in its magnificent beauty. The ice had this unusual shade of white-blue creating an outstanding contrast against the brown-black of rocks, all so beautifully dichromatic.

The Rinka waterfalls

River Savinja soon after gushing out to the surface makes this plunge of 90 meters forming the beautiful Rinka falls. And then again it quickly disappears into the gravely floor. There is a big rock just underneath the fall. Ice covered it in different layers creating a mesmerizing beauty. Rinka was dancing in the rhythm of the breeze. As everything was frozen, we happily walked to the rock. It is such fun to walk on frozen snow and listen to the crackling sounds. Later we walked up to Orlovo gnezdo (Eagle’s nest), the observation and tea hut. From up there, all around is only the thrilling splendor of the nature. One can only try to be an insignificant part of it.

Rinka waterfalls and Eagle's Nest teahut

Mountains all around, Kamnik-Savinja Alps

On the way back, we literally traced our steps. There was only another single pair of shoe print besides us!! A very rare experience in Slovenia where everyone loves walking and hiking.

Snowy slope to slide down

 It was Sunday. Even though our trip was ending, we still had the whole day to enjoy and look forward to. There was a tiny ski slope by the homestead. We had some old slides with us, and decided to try it on the slope. The next hour had our laughter echoing in the air. It was like being a child riding a slide. I ran up the slope and then slid down all giggling. I had to be careful to steer in proper direction or could have just banged against one ski-lift pole. Every time I just wished to run up higher and slide down faster.

Being child again

Finally, it was time to leave this beautiful valley. The road made turns into some nice scenery, and soon the Savinja joined us. We were driving through the beautiful gorge. Close to the Igla (needle) rock, we noticed some small ‘caves’ in the hilly wall with beautiful icicles and other ice structures. There was also a small wooden footbridge across the river. We just had to stop. First, we peeked inside the caves. Blaž broke one giant icicle. It is fun to see how the ice does not melt in your hand but only becomes a bit sticky, somehow sticking to the gloves. We crossed the bridge to the other side. There was the beginning of some trail. We were two inquisitive souls exploring all around a bit (and making plans for summer times).

The Igla (Needle) Rock
 
Wooden footbridge across Savinja by Igla

Leaving the valley, we took a longer road back to Ljubljana via Mozirje. The sunny meadows and snowy hills on background adorned the countryside. It was late afternoon when we returned back to Ljubljana. A bit tired we were, but very peaceful and happy. We were relaxed, recharged and full of enthusiasm. After listening to the whispers of solitude, we were back again to the crowd of city. Satisfied souls.

1 comment:

  1. The post reads so well. Logarska dolina is beautiful in summer but differently special in winter because it gets almost no tourists. It is really empty and peaceful then. One should also take the Solcava Panoramic Road as well, if road conditions permit!

    ReplyDelete

LinkWithin

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...

ShareThis