The alpine pasture - Velika planina

(Velika planina, Slovenia. 11 September, 2011)


It was a sunny day. The fields were green and the sky a clear blue. Birds were chirping. The flowers were in bloom. Everything was so gloriously bright that I just wished to go out for some nice ride. I longed to be in some pristine corner of nature. And thus we set out to go to Velika Planina. I had seen some pictures from Blaž, and simply had wished to go there. Finally it was a perfect day to do so..

Velika planina, meaning big pasture, is one beautiful alpine plateau in foothills of Kamnik-Savinja Alps. Amidst the karst sinkholes is one of the best-preserved traditional herdsmen’s settlements in Europe. The tradition of pasturing and cheese making is still alive. The plateau attracts visitors throughout the year. In the pasturing season of summer, it is a pleasant hiking destination with picturesque views. The winters are for family skiing. Along with the herdsmen’s cottages that dot the mountain pastures, there are holiday cabins and weekend houses. The easiest access is from Kamniška Bistrica via cable car. We, however, walked our way through Mala planina.

Passing the nearest town of Kamnik, we took some unpaved road towards Kisovec. Where the roads to Kisovec and top of Velika Planina split, we parked our car by the road. We took the trail to Žaga on Mala planina and continued to Velika planina. It was an easy hour of hike with little height gain. 

The initial few meters of our walk was on the unpaved road for cars. Green meadows were on both sides with a few cows grazing. Late-summer autumn flowers bloomed by the road. There were those little purple and white flowers. What particularly caught my interest were the silver thistle flowers. A bit prickly and dry-ish looking, this flower represented the natural wilderness. As we left the road and turned to the trail, the fresh smell of pine trees filled the air. We also felt the early autumn chill.

Silver thistle growing by the road

Everything was clean and sunny. After about three quarters of an hour of slow walk, we reached the board directing us towards various walking trails. There were a couple of herdsmen’s cottages in the plain, and a few families were enjoying a bright day. We followed the trail to Mala planina.

Directing us towards Mala planina

Mala planina, the small pasture, had only a few cottages and artificial ponds for cattle. There was a tea house and small food place where people sat cheerfully chatting and having some snacks. The children were running all around. Some stopped by the ponds to look in inquisitively. We did the same by the largest pond. And wow, we had never seen so many alpine newts in one place ever! All the detailed patterns on their backs, and their orange tummies were visible. They made little bubbles and floated on the water surface. A few dragonflies hovered around. There was a herdsman tending to his cows. With a promise to visit the pond again on way back, we continued ahead towards Velika planina.

Mala planina, the pond

Alpine newt

The hill and mountaintops were enveloped in mist. Bright green pastures extended in every direction. And those were dotted with grazing cows. Some were munching the grass. Some were lazily chewing the cud, mostly oblivious of the people around. One could go near and caress them, feel the warmth of their skin, and take a picture. It was a fairy tale landscape.

Walking towards Velika planina

And the fairy tale turned perfect as the view on Velika planina opened in front of us. The sunny blue sky, the wind carrying the smell of fresh grass and pine, the hint of mist, the green plateau dotted with grey cottages, the grazing cattle, and the cheerful people. Everything was just perfect.

Velika planina

The most striking feature of the pasture is the particular architecture of the herdsmen’s cottages. These wooden huts are single roomed dwellings with their oval roofs extending almost to the ground. The space thus created by the extended roofs is meant for sheltering the cattle. The modern holiday and private cottages are also built in harmony with this unique medieval architecture. The chapel of Marija Sneza also echoes the same architectural design. We walked up to the chapel first, and then went down to the cottages.

Chapel 'Marija Snezna' at distance

It was a scene of cheerful picnic in front of us. The private cottage windows had little red curtains, and children were playing outside in the sun. The karstic landscape had several sinkholes and rocks scattered all over. People sat on those rocks enjoying the view ahead. Cows were grazing in smaller herds, and some people were feeding them breads and biscuits. The gentle chime of their bells created music as they nodded their heads. The drinking ponds reflected the blue of the sky, and gentle cotton ball like flowers dotted the high grass around. Some people set their tripod and focused on the beauty ahead. We sat on some rock, the nature creating fairytale around us. My heart sang with the ringing cowbells, and fluttered with the floating mist.

A pond, high grass, blooming flowers, and cottages

Grazing cow and ringing bell

Our feet sank in the thick soft carpet of grass as we walked to the ridge. The modern concrete settlements stretched far on the other side. Looking down at the whole planina from the little height was beautiful; the whole plateau drenched in sunshine was vibrant. It was like a picture postcard view, nestled in the lap of the mountains. The heart soaring high fluttered with the wind under its wings. It was just simply so happy.

Walking on the ridge

Looking down at Velika planina from the ridge

While returning, as promised, we stopped by the pond at Mala planina, spending a bit more time with the alpine newts. We followed the movements of one until it hid itself inside the murky water and was no more visible. One young newt was floating on the water, the wind carrying it ahead. Some were hiding in the soft mud. They were all such adorable.

We walked down the unpaved road for cars from Žaga. It was a faster descent. As we rode our car back to the city, our hearts sang the melody of the cowbells and wandered with the wind in those green pastures.

A solitary weekend - Logarska Dolina

(Logarska Dolina, Slovenia. 21-23 January, 2011)
 

Entangled in the hustle bustle of everyday busy routine, sometimes the mind seeks to be one with nature, to relax and rejuvenate in some solitary corner. We planned for such a trip in nature one weekend in the last snowy January to the Logar valley. It had been my long wish to spend a couple of days amidst nothing, surrounded with snow, to relax and enjoy. Finally, it was coming true. The only plan was to do nothing. We only wished to feel the tranquility and natural beauty around us..

Logarska dolina, the Logar valley, is one of the most beautiful glacial valleys of the Alps. Lying in the heart of Kamnik-Savinja Alps, lofty mountains surround this ancient narrow valley. Tumbling down the mountains are numerous waterfalls and streams. Abysses, overhanging walls, moraine deposits, etc present the glacial history of the valley now covered with green meadows and forests. It is also an ideal starting point for various hiking and climbing routes, and offers several other activities.

On the Friday, we left work a bit early and started for the valley. It was around 70km long drive, a nice one with no highway. I always love that. We passed known towns, and took some roads I simply adore. Then it was all unknown. Cold little Savinja flowed on one side of the road; and mountains formed a wall on the other. The overhanging walls of agglomerated rocks formed different sculptures from which were hanging interesting ice formations. Each time the road turned, the scenery in front of us changed into another fascinating one. It was almost dark as we reached the valley. The car pulled by the homestead we were about to stay in.

The way to Logarska Dolina

 
The valley is divided in three parts, Log, Plest and Kot. Our homestead ‘Juvanija’ (in the lower valley Log) was there enveloped in the darkness of the evening, without anything else nearby. We were the only guests in the farm. The room was furnished with wood, and the warm yellow light created a cozy relaxing ambiance. After refreshing, it was soon time for dinner. Warm soup, pork in a tasty sauce with dumplings, and a simple dessert, the menu was rustic and delicious.

Our homestead Juvanija in the morning

Everything was silver as we stepped out in the balcony. The almost full moon drenched the whole valley; the snow was white with a glittery shine. It was chilly winter outside. Everything enveloped in this beautiful silence.
Next morning we woke up to a pristine beauty. Starting with a lazy breakfast, there was no real plans to explore around much. “After the sun shines into the valley”, we thought, “we would walk to the Rinka waterfalls”. The narrow valley gets only a few hours of sun, especially in the winter. In the wait, I almost fell asleep snuggled in the relaxing warmth of the blanket. When in the city does one have the luxury to do that? We woke up only when the sun was shining into the room making it gloriously golden.

On the way to Rinka waterfalls

 

Footsteps on snow

It was around 6km walk to the falls, and there was no one on the road. We were making footsteps on the fresh snow that fell overnight. The actual hiking trails were mostly inaccessible because of the snow and we decided to take the main road. By the road, I would find these beautiful white fields without a footstep on it, and had this strong urge to run there. We walked to the tree. Little icicles and snow curtain hung on its branches. I loved when these tiny ice needles melted in mouth with a tingling sensation. The last part of the walk was amidst woods, dry leaves crushing under the snow. Then, there was Rinka waterfall in front of us. Almost frozen and in its magnificent beauty. The ice had this unusual shade of white-blue creating an outstanding contrast against the brown-black of rocks, all so beautifully dichromatic.

The Rinka waterfalls

River Savinja soon after gushing out to the surface makes this plunge of 90 meters forming the beautiful Rinka falls. And then again it quickly disappears into the gravely floor. There is a big rock just underneath the fall. Ice covered it in different layers creating a mesmerizing beauty. Rinka was dancing in the rhythm of the breeze. As everything was frozen, we happily walked to the rock. It is such fun to walk on frozen snow and listen to the crackling sounds. Later we walked up to Orlovo gnezdo (Eagle’s nest), the observation and tea hut. From up there, all around is only the thrilling splendor of the nature. One can only try to be an insignificant part of it.

Rinka waterfalls and Eagle's Nest teahut

Mountains all around, Kamnik-Savinja Alps

On the way back, we literally traced our steps. There was only another single pair of shoe print besides us!! A very rare experience in Slovenia where everyone loves walking and hiking.

Snowy slope to slide down

 It was Sunday. Even though our trip was ending, we still had the whole day to enjoy and look forward to. There was a tiny ski slope by the homestead. We had some old slides with us, and decided to try it on the slope. The next hour had our laughter echoing in the air. It was like being a child riding a slide. I ran up the slope and then slid down all giggling. I had to be careful to steer in proper direction or could have just banged against one ski-lift pole. Every time I just wished to run up higher and slide down faster.

Being child again

Finally, it was time to leave this beautiful valley. The road made turns into some nice scenery, and soon the Savinja joined us. We were driving through the beautiful gorge. Close to the Igla (needle) rock, we noticed some small ‘caves’ in the hilly wall with beautiful icicles and other ice structures. There was also a small wooden footbridge across the river. We just had to stop. First, we peeked inside the caves. Blaž broke one giant icicle. It is fun to see how the ice does not melt in your hand but only becomes a bit sticky, somehow sticking to the gloves. We crossed the bridge to the other side. There was the beginning of some trail. We were two inquisitive souls exploring all around a bit (and making plans for summer times).

The Igla (Needle) Rock

 

Wooden footbridge across Savinja by Igla

Leaving the valley, we took a longer road back to Ljubljana via Mozirje. The sunny meadows and snowy hills on background adorned the countryside. It was late afternoon when we returned back to Ljubljana. A bit tired we were, but very peaceful and happy. We were relaxed, recharged and full of enthusiasm. After listening to the whispers of solitude, we were back again to the crowd of city. Satisfied souls.